Ulaanbaatar

Tuesday, May 17, 2011


A young graduate has a moment with the Chinggis Khan Memorial, Sukhbaatar Square, downtown Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

(photo R. Minton)


The Sprinter van barreled and bounced down the dark, pothole laden two-lane highway, the only stimulus capable of keeping me awake after 24 hours of non-stop airline travel. Outside the window, I caught glimpses of rundown brick structures and the occasional ger. Numerous billboards and street signs in Cyrillic caught my attention, both confusing my Roman orientations and piquing my curiosities as to what exactly they indicated. We checked into our guesthouse in the wee hours of the morning and fought off our excitement as we drifted into deep sleep.


"Young Monk" enjoying a sunny afternoon at the Zaisan Memorial

(photo CJ Carter)


The Zaisan Memorial, paying tribute to Russian soldiers at the end of the Soviet Era

(photo CJ Carter)


Our arrival in Ulaanbaatar late Thursday night brought us into a chaotic and stimulating urban universe. Originally founded in 1639 as a nomadic Buddhist monastic center, modern day UB has a feel similar to that of urban Europe, yet hosts its own, unique brand of madness in the ongoing development of the country’s newfound riches. It is a very exciting time to be in Ulaanbaatar, as the Mongolian economy is quickly gaining strength from the profitable industry of natural resource extraction, predominantly sourced by the barren stretches of the Gobi region. With very apparent throwbacks to the Soviet era, it is civilized yet rugged, but bustling with the hope of a prosperous future for Mongolia and her people.


Young Ulaanbaatarites hittin' the jump shot at the community courts near the Selbe River
(photo CJ Carter)

The boom is chaos, though; with limited zoning ordinances and even fewer building restrictions, Ulaanbaatar is taking on a life of its own. More cranes than buildings dot the skyline of this north central Mongolian hub, and I can’t help but liken it to a first time lottery winner, ecstatic with newfound winnings but fraught with misdirection. But the city, although chaotic, is also beautiful, littered with gorgeous monuments and stunning architecture. Deservedly, the Mongolian people are proud of where they live and where they have come from, and it is no surprise that the descendants of Genghis Khan would be anything but resourceful and industrial in this time of economic growth.


Traditional handmade leather boots, Ulaanbaatar Black Market

(photo CJ Carter)


The traditional Horsehead Fiddle

(photo R. Minton)


The day after arriving, we met with our translator and in-country affiliate, Aldraa. An ex-special forces paratrooper turned Mongolian adventure racer, Aldraa has got the good life in Mongolia dialed. He helped us outline our plan for traveling to the mountains of Bayaan-Olgii (Mongolia’s westernmost province), then set us loose on what would turn into one of the most entertaining and perspective challenging urban experiences I have had to date. Delicious meals (Tsuivan, buuz, and khuushur among the favorites), meandering walk-abouts, black market excursions, and welcome conversation with UB locals have accentuated the spice that is the capitol of Mongolia. Only five days into our travels, we feel very fortunate to have already experienced various threads of life in this beautiful country. Our sights now turn towards the countryside and, soon after, the mountains. Stay tuned…


Planning for the adventures to come...

(photo R. Minton)

2 comments:

Unknown said...

hooooieeee! fun adventures boys! more! more!you are in my thoughts. Go with the winds

Tyson Weaver said...

fantastic to see you guys out and about exploring far reaching corners of the world under an introspective lens. wishing you all best on your travels- tyson weaver

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